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Something totally wrong to me. I would check, and make sure that the relay is wired correctly. If you were hitting in the 180 area, I could say something minor is acting up, but to hit that low, somthing major is wrong, or a bunch of small things are wrong. When I hit lower then stock, I found out that my timing was wrong, my relay was wired wrong, and my car's air/fuel ratio was totally wrong. I would check the air/fuel ratio, ASAP! Your probally flooding the engine with fuel! Check that along with the wiring!
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Mike Marsey
'98 ITR #0717
Supercharged!
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LOL Europe, i gotcha,, sorry,,, okay yeah a air fuel controller will help with your problem up above 7000k, but you need to fix whatever is making you get less power than stock first... Keep us informed,, k..........I'm really curious as to what the problem is.. And RBoosted is right, Check your air/fuel Ration first. If you running to rich or lean, you might have bigger problems than not enough horsepower, and i don't wanna see another B18C5 blown
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Your plots shape is the same as alot
of other SC'd ITR's. Mine also had a
HP drop at 7k RPM. The resistance
value in the relay was way too high.
On mine it was dropped from 15k ohms
to 5k ohms. Now I have no off-idle
stumble and I dyno 200 whp at 8.4k
RPM. The problems with the R's seem
to be air/fuel related. Get to a dyno
that can plot A/F ratio and I bet
you'll find your super rich (I was
running 11:1).
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That damn autometer a/f gauge shows me at WOT 2-5 lights in the rich. I think it?s normal and I think that the fucking gauge have an realy uncorrect mesurement. The dynoplot shows at high rpm that I?m too rich (powerband goes into the basement) but my a/f ratio is only 2-3 lights in the rich???
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NO! Dont follow what the Autometer says! You need to go back to the dyno place, or a bette place, and ask to have them hook up a wide band O2 sensor! This sensor will probally hook up to your exhaust system, since its stock. When you dyno your car, the sesor will pick up your exhaust readings and tell them almost exactly what air/fuel ratio you have at each rpm segment. Its very critial you us a dyno wide band O2 sensor, and not the autometer for tuning purposes. The autometer will only tell you that you rich, normal, or stoich at full throttle. If your running way too rich, the meter wont tell you exactly how rich, etc...
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Mike Marsey
'98 ITR #0717
Supercharged!
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I really don't understand your dyno, but to me your going to have that dip up high because your ecu is making you run rich, thats for sure, fix(a/f controller), all that aside how do you read that horsepower, Tell me what you WHP is, cuz 156 just doesn't sound right at all, Like I said before, after install first dyno was 186.7whp, which was low to me, but it was like I said 110+ and with the ecu making me run rich, and my charger, and belts not being broke in, i was only pumping out tops 4psi, now i'm at a good 5-5.5psi, Can't wait to get my efi PMS
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Stupid question for my own education...It the motor in the European market ITR the Japanese spec or the US spec motor?
Sean
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99 GS-R w/ JRSC@6PSI. ES torque mounts & shift stabilizer kit. Oh..And a filter onna stick.
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Sean,
I think the Euro version has a slightly higher CR ratio than the US version but thats about it.
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Marc
1997 Civic EX, Supercharged
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My turn for a stupid thought.
Austrian Type-R: Are you looking at the A/F gauge when your headlights are on? Does your car have daytime running lights? (i.e. headlights always on).
I ask this because when I have my headlights on, my autometer A/F gauge goes 3 LEDs leaner. (e.g. WOT with no headlights = 2-3 green LEDs, WOT with headlights = last 1-2 yellow LEDs).
The A/F is not really different, it's just the voltage drop in the whole electrical system.
3-4 green LEDs without headlights is safely rich, but if you see 3-4 green LEDs AND your headlights are on, I think you are running really, really rich.
Greg
